Pub: Bouzy Rouge Hotel
Where: 470 Bridge Rd., Richmond
Phone: 9429 4348
Date: 26 October 2007
Score: 15.6
In sport, the term “champion” gets argued more often about its application to a certain individual than any other word.
For instance, is Chris Judd a champion of the game – remember the sobriquet once attached cannot be removed – or does one wait until career’s end to consider whether such lofty praise is appropriate? (Yes he is - no need to wait!!!)
In Melbourne pubs, the term Legend is the biggie and I suppose the two words have the same meaning, different jockey.
This noble pub status is applied where longevity is the main criteria; Billy Bell (Sth Melb) and Kath Byers (Notting Hill) are two such worthy recipients of said accolade.
But there are a few others, who in years may not have the miles as the aforementioned duo, but their contribution and vision to the Melbourne Pub scene is equally as valuable, equally impressive.
One such person is José D’Olivera, mine host at the Bouzy Rouge, which up until recently traded successfully as The Dover Castle. Now I know gushing praise inevitably leads to a dissenting view (already have on this pub and I encourage the feedback!!), but his record of success is inarguable.
Simply every pub over the past 20 years has had 3 common D’Olivera features;
• Levels of food and service superior to most,
• Keeping prices within the perceived “pub” levels
• Never compromising on any aspect, especially staff, to be successful.
Here’s the roll-call; The Robert Peel (Nth Melb) may lay claim to being the first “Gastro” pub of Melbourne. Then The Commercial Club (Fitzroy), later named D’Olivera’s; then the Hotel Prahran, then the Palace (Sth Melbourne) and now here.
There are constants too. Unglamorous exterior, No TAB, No Pokies. Small, intimate establishments, where you feel welcome and wanted. His latest – The Bouzy Rouge may well be his best.
First instincts are best; as soon as you walk in you know you want to be there. Sandblasted walls, polished floorboards and just small, sophisticated touches confirm that this is a place to spend a few dollars in, knowing it is at a better level than most.
The pub has a small, neat, polished front bar – Asahi on tap – while the mirrors that face you highlight the vast array of top quality vodkas and assorted spirits.
Head through the narrow hallways to a busy, well-lit, spotlessly clean dining room (maybe too cosy), and from there to a small beer-garden/outdoor area. Since a last visit, a wall has been knocked out which has given the dining room more accessibility.
Menu falls into 2 categories – tapas and traditional and after only 2 weeks of operation, the pub-going-public are already in numbers there.
A small vessel of parmesan oil with a white bean mix is brought to the table. Bread to mop up – No charge. Water is poured as often as you need it from attentive staff and butchers paper covers the linen.
Tried from the tapas were;
• House cured salmon atop potato crisp with a dob goats cheese
• Grilled Prawns and pancetta in olive oil (warm)
• Scallop and Chorizo skewer
The above range between $10-12 and while some may argue that these are small dishes, the tastes were intense and filling.
A magnificent eye fillet, béarnaise, spinach and fries ($30) matches any pub steak I have had over the last few years, while veal escalopes ($18), were the real deal at a most fair price to any similar Parma offer from any pub.
Wine by the glass prices varied but in the $7/glass range, were Fox Creek Cab/Merlot and Whitehaven S/Blanc. At least 7 pages to choose from, so if you are dining alone, your wine list makes for a good companion.
From the start I loved the place, which is reasonable to gather from the foregoing. Maybe my excitement to know one of Melbourne’s best operators is back has influenced me but I don’t think so.
I will go again but I stick with my judgement of one of the real contenders for Pub of The year 2007. And Beyond.